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The new dress code: No logos
The subtle style of Succession's Logan Roy was noticeably void of any logos.HBO
Whether you call it quiet luxury, stealth wealth or recession core, the subtle style of the Roys’ wardrobe on Succession is notably void of loud logos. This look is firmly defined by casual Friday pieces grounded by a cashmere crewneck or ¾-zip sweater topped with a baseball cap without any brand recognition. The impulse to seek low-key looks during an economic downturn isn’t new, though. The terms “luxury shame” and “downward spiral of conspicuous consumption” were making headlines after the Great Recession in 2009. That’s when the fashion pack tipped from bedazzled track suits toward millennial-friendly must-haves including dark indigo jeans, white sneakers, a 24/7 hoodie and the perfect tee, which were eventually defined as normcore. Arguably, trading pre-COVID leanings toward high-priced and branded athleisure (think Gucci, Balenciaga and others) for subtle essentials is wallet-friendly and more likely to withstand the fickle fashion barometer, whatever economic mood it’s in.
Business
Change-makers
Vancouver-based NGO Canopy is leading an initiative to divert demand toward sustainable alternative textiles and fabrics.Handout
According to Vancouver-based NGO Canopy, 300 million trees are deforested and turned into fast-fashion fabrics every year. To close the deforestation loop in the lifestyle and fashion sector, more than 520 global brands and retailers – including LVMH, H&M, Balenciaga, Gucci and Zara – have signed on to stop sourcing from climate-critical forests as part of the CanopyStyle initiative. The initiative aims to divert demand toward sustainable alternatives, such as recycled textiles, which can be used in place of wood-based fibres, for clothing. This week, Canopy received the US$60-million Audacious Prize from TED, which will go toward building more than 200 commercial-scale textile recycling mills that can turn old materials into new clothes. The secured brand commitments are worth more than US$886.3-billion in collective revenue, and now, Canopy is looking for support from investors and buy-in from farmers to reach their larger mission of removing all sources of climate-critical forests from paper, packaging and textile supply chains globally by 2030.
Retail
Work it
Ready-to-wear brand Veronica Beard opened its first Canadian retail store in Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood.JANET KIMBER/Handout
Popular ready-to-wear brand Veronica Beard, known for putting a modern spin on women’s everyday wardrobe classics, has opened its first Canadian retail store in Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood. Founded by sisters-in-law Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard in 2010, the New York company was an instant hit with customers who snapped up the line’s iconic Dickey Jacket, a versatile piece worn by everyone from Jill Biden to Reese Witherspoon. The chain now has 21 stores in the United States, one in England and the most recent 1,800-square-foot space in Toronto, styled in partnership with Ralph Lauren veteran Carolina De Neufville, who carried on the brand’s décor tradition of upholstering chairs, ottomans and drapery in Pierre Frey’s signature leopard. Veronica Beard die-hards love that the clothes carry them from desk to dinner and everywhere in between.
Obsession
Mix & match
Toronto-based Mejuri's new design of the Ana bag with a gold chain and co-branded jewellery pouch is priced from $128-$350 in store and online.Handout
Since its founding in 2015, Toronto-based Mejuri has used e-commerce to revolutionize “everyday fine jewelry” and its minimalist designs have become beloved by celebrities such as Selena Gomez, Oprah Winfrey, Olivia Rodrigo, Kate Hudson and Bella Hadid. This week, Mejuri launched three customizable pieces designed in collaboration with the equally buzzy brand Luar, from designer Raul Lopez. Each piece gives classic designs an unexpected twist, incorporating bold shapes, gold vermeil and cream enamel, and can be transformed and worn multiple ways. The collection includes oval-shaped, detachable Convertible Hoops, which allow for three earring options in one, the ‘Ana’ Hoop Charm (a mini version of Luar’s signature geometric Ana bag), which can be added to your trusted hoop earrings, as well as a new design of the Ana bag with a gold chain and co-branded jewellery pouch. Priced from $128-$350 in store and online at mejuri.com or Luar.world.
Luxury
Green is the new black
Coachtopia's Strappy Sandal has a sole made from at least 40 per cent renewable bio-based materials, 50 per cent repurposed high-quality leather straps, 100 per cent recycled polyester webbing, and retails for $155.Handout
Fashion powerhouses from Ralph Lauren to Prada have started new lines this year aimed at reducing waste by using recycled, repurposed materials. Now Coach has joined the green luxury trend with the launch of Coachtopia, a sub-brand with a circular business model that features bags, accessories, ready-to-wear clothing and footwear. Made with fabric scraps, repurposed materials and deadstock (old Coach products), the pieces are also designed to be easily disassembled, repaired and recycled. Pictured here, the chunky Coachtopia Strappy Sandal has a sole made from at least 40 per cent renewable bio-based materials, 50 per cent repurposed high-quality leather straps, 100 per cent recycled polyester webbing, and 35 per cent recycled polyamide velcro. The Coachtopia collection runs from $30-$610.